Unfortunately for me, I had suffered from some sort of food poisoning the night before and therefore was tired from getting very little sleep as well as feeling that all-over fatigue that accompanies the day after a bout of food poisoning. Laugh not, this is already the second time that I have had some sort of food poisoning since getting here.
But, I made it this morning to stand in the freezing cold (it's already in the low fifties) and look at pig ears next to some sort of pate made with pig head. Yum.
We went to the market that is part of the rotating market system in Paris. Each day, the market is located in a different district. There are also permanent markets- flea and food, located throughout the city. However, the grand Les Halles market that used to supply all of Paris is no longer- you have to visit Anthony Bourdain in New York for that experience. There are also special markets, like the Organic Market that is only open on Sundays in a few locations. The chef discussed the market culture in the country as predating grocery stores and unlike in America, markets still remain active and a lively source of produce and food for many Parisians.
Now, I have been to many a farmer's market in the US and when I lived in Jerusalem, I visited the "shuk" multiple times a week. But this market is not centrally located and feels totally different. Instead, the vendors line up on the side walks wherever there is space and the market curves around the roads and side street of Paris. It does not feel like you are in a "market" but more so dodging side walk vendors.
(pig ears)
(tripe in an aspic-like gellatin mold)
Some of the vendors, like at a farmer's market are the producer. They are farmers who come into the city to sell their produce; they are the actual butcher who butchered the meat. Other vendors are merely middle men who are selling the produce or fish that someone else caught. This does not necessarily mean that the food is of lesser quality or freshness, it just means that you should be aware of what you are paying for and what you will be getting for your money.
(fish mongers)
For example, the produce from the farmer will be more flavorful, but will not be even or as aesthetically appealing. So, if you are just eating the veggies, then you would obviously go for the flavorful farmer's selection. If you are presenting the veggies in some fashion then you may want the prettier produce.
(One of the butchers- there are going to be a lot of pictures of butchers (not charcuterie specialized, but an ordinary butcher or boucher). I apologize, but I have a thing for butchers. Deal with me.)
There are also ways to tell if your produce is fresh. For example, with fish, always check the gills. The redder the gills- the better and fresher your fish is. Also, the firmer the fish is indicates its freshness. I think of it sort of like you want to buy your fish while it is still in rigor-mortis.
(Chicken Cordon Bleu- not exactly the type of recipe that we are making at the Le Cordon Bleu culinary school)
At the cheese stand (or fromagerie), the fromager-woman (sorry I don't know fromager's feminine form!) was really cool. I liked her a lot and she was very friendly in explaining the cheeses and encouraging us to try more. We of course bought some favorites- Brillat-Savarin being one of them.
(the fromage-lady and the chef discussing cheese)
Now, I know what you are thinking. "Is that Brillat-Savarin who wrote the amazing book, The Physiology of Taste?" And YES! You are exactly right! (In case you are not as obsessed with the book as I am, google it now!) Turns out, that Mr. Brillat-Savarin was so influential that he got an influential French cheese named after him. It is very much like a light brie. If you ever come across it, I would recommend trying some.
(This cheese (being pointed at), the cantal, is another French staple cheese. It tastes a lot like New England Cheddar, so I liked it. The darker cheese next to it is an Italian cheese very much like a Parmesean, but with clove inside (hence the taste) and it was DELICIOUS!)
(middle man vendor produce)
(farmer's produce)
We also on our tour found a little shop that predates the grocery store, but is very similar. It contained jarred, pickled, and dry goods. It was quite adorable and reminded me of some of the little shops that you will find on the Lower East Side of Manhattan that have been there for 50 years and have a devoted clientele, but are a dying breed.
(the shop and it's owner!)
And being France and a market there was of course, the horse meat butcher. WARNING: some may want to stop reading this paragraph and skip the next two pictures. Horse meat is still sold in France, while not in the US (though there are some measures in place to change that). If you look at the picture of the horse meat, you will see that it is very red. That is because there is very little to no fat in the meat. So many people enjoy eating it because it is a red, but lean meat. They also say it is good for "growing boys" and to keep the elderly strong. Today, it is mostly the elderly that buy the horse meat. However, with all things old-fashioned, it is becoming trendy for younger people to buy and eat horse meat again because it has less steroids than beef and other forms of red meat.
(Horse meat butcher)
One of the butchers that we came across has the MOF distinction. This distinction is only given in France to the butchers who can prove that they have impeccable butchering skills. Apparently, there are competitions and it is quite an arduous process as well as a huge honor to be an MOF butcher.
(but, I think the M in MOF may just stand for Mustache because he has an awesome one!)
Tasting time back at school!!
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